It’s 6:00 a.m., the lights go on along with the repetitive sound of chanting monks wafting throughout the Roncesvalles albergue. (Click on video) No alarm needed when 183 people get ready to start their day.
Our goal today is to get five beds in either Zubiri or Larrasoana which will be between a 22 and 25 km walk. Many pilgrims walking and biking today so we may be homeless, when it’s all said and done. Should we have packed tents, too?
The first town to appear along our route is Burguete, renowned for its sturdy Pyrenean style farmhouses. The author, Ernest Hemingway, stayed here in 1924 and 1925 while on fishing trips and also describes the village in the book, The Sun Also Rises.
There had once been a witch’s coven in the Burguete area in the sixteenth century. The surrounding forested region, part of the province of Navarre, was known as the Wood of Sorginaritzaga or Oak Grove of the Witches. Medieval people had believed that the presence of a white cross would save them from such evil. Spain had repressed witchcraft in this Auritz-Burguete area and eastward around Roncesvalles more fiercely than anywhere else in the country. Long before the Spanish Inquisition began in 1478, a major raid against witches took place here in 1329. This resulted in the burning of five alleged witches in a village square. ~http://www.heatherconnblogs.com/tag/auritz-burguete/
We wind through a small village to find a meticulously stacked woodpile, a clothesline and a neatly placed row of flower pots. To me, that is a beautiful sight and I know I could never stack wood that neatly.
We arrive in Zubiri, which means “village of the bridge,” after crossing the Puente de la Rabia (Rabies Bridge). In days gone by, they believed that you could walk a rabid animal three times around the central arch and cure it of rabies. ~Brierley
We are happy to arrive in Zubiri as we hope to stay here, but sad to find that we are homeless…
Hmmm… what to do? Maybe if we walk around the bridge three times we will find beds to sleep in? Well, at least we won’t have rabies.